Gadiara & Geonkhali

Susunia (Bankura, West Bengal)

A paradise for trekkers, Susunia is 7 Kilometre north to Chatna. One can reach Bankura by train and then after reaching Chatna 13 Kilometre away from there, Susunia the crown of Bankura allures from a distance of a few Kilometres. Not that gigantic in terms of height (440 metre) or width (3.2 Kilometre from East to West), Susunia Hill besides mesmerizing its visitors with its unmatchable serene beauty also surprises him when he comes to know that this ancient hill made of stones from Archaean era is even older than the Great Himalaya. Right at the top of the hill stones of different sizes have flocked together to form a peak like shape popularly known as Poppinse peak. The Gandheshwari River flowing right beneath the hill and trees of different sizes covering the hill with greenery seems to be taking care of this ancient identity with utmost caution.

Brief History of Susunia: In fourth century King Chandravarma of Pushkaran/Pokhran (Located at Jodhpur, Rajasthan) conquered Bengal and set up his castle on Susunia Hill. At the end of the fourth century Chandraverma died in a battle with Gupta King Samudragupta. Chandraverma’s rock encrypts and many other ancient articraft has been found at Susunia in recent days that justifies the history of Susunia.

Places to Watch at Susunia: Susunia is all covered with greenery contributed by Shal, Segun, Palash, Arjun Amlaki and Mahua trees. In autumn the hill apparently looks to be set in fire due to the blooming of red Palash flowers all over its body. The water of the fountain at the foot of the hill believed to be with healing power from many diseases especially those related with bowels. Just opposite to the fountain a stone monument is worshiped as Nrishinghadev an avatar (messiah) of Hindu god Lord Vishnu. A temple of Hindu goddess Kali is also nearby. A visitor should also consider visiting Chatna the capital of now extinct Samanta kindom, to watch the ancient temple of Hindu goddess Vishalakhshmi or Vasuli. The temple was established by King Hamir following the order of the goddess herself in his dream. Famous poet Baru Chandidas was the priest in this temple during the reign of King Hamir. However the original statue of goddess Vishalakhshmi is no longer in this temple it has moved to Dubrajpur, Birbhum. Now a broken stone covered with oil and vermilion is worshiped as the image of the goddess. An inquisitive visitor can also go to Tiluri from Susunia and after a 10 Kilometre walk from there can visit the temple of Biharinath on Crauncho Mountain (Height 448 metre).

Things to collect in Susunia: Susunia is famous for its handicrafts especially stone made ones.

Best time to visit: Summer should always be avoided while visiting Susunia. The best time to visit the place is between November and February.

Bishnupur (Bankura, West Bengal)

Brief History: In 695 A.D Kshatriya Raghunath laid the foundation stone of Mallabhum. Owing to his immense skill in wrestling and indomitable chivalry he was honoured with the title Malla. this had also signified the initiation of Mallabda. In 14Th century 29Th Malla king Jagatmalla came to Bisnupur from Praddumnapur and established the capital of Malla Kingdom there. Later on King Hambir who was initially a worshiper of goddess Kali came in touch with Baishnabacharya Srinibas and started worshiping Madanmohan. After Hambir, his son Raghunath adorned the throne. Famous for his chivalry, he received the title Singha from Mogal Subedar (an official administrative post) Sah Suja, resembling his courage and strength. In 1656 after the demise of Raghunath his son Veer Singha was crowned as the next Malla King. In a controversial move Veer Singha sentenced his 8 sons to death, however one of them Durjan Singha managed to escape the death sentence and later became the king of Mallabhum. Durjan Singha was succeeded by II Raghunath Singha. Raghunath Singha defeated pathan chieftain Rahim Khan and abducted his queen Lal Bai. Following his illegal relation with Lal Bai he was murdered by his queen and Lal Bai with his son was drowned to death in Lal Bandh (Lal Dighi a large water body) by a group of angry mob. Till date the story of the love affair between II Raghunath Singha and Lal Bai is discussed and told by the local people. After the sad demise of II Raghunath Singha, Gopal Singha adorned the throne of Mallabhum. During his reign Maratha Leader Vaskar Pandit attacked Mallabhum with his infamous Bargi soldiers. According to the common belief, Lord Madanmohan himself fired a large cannon to protect Mallabhum from the aggression of the invaders. This cannon after its success over the Bargi's was named as Dalmardan or Dalmadal. Gopal Singha was followed by Krishna Singha and Chaitanya Singha as the king of Mallabhum. During the reign of Chaitanya Singha the 56Th Malla King, Mallabhum was auctioned by British Government in 1805, following its failure to pay taxes to the East India Company and was purchased by the King of Bardhaman, thus putting an end to the Malla Kingdom.

Bisnupur demonstrates a phenomenal display of medieval Bengali architecture, personified through a series of temples built mainly in three forms "Deul, Chala and Ratna". Below, I have given a list of most famous places of Bishnupur that a tourist should include in his agenda if he decides to visit there

Rasmancha: Rasmancha was built in 1607 century by king Beera Hambir and is considered as the oldest brick temple covered with terracotta tiles. Built in a combination of Bengali Chala and Egyptian Pyramid architecture, it has 3 galleries and 64 rooms. 35 feet high and 80 feet at width and length the Rasmancha is one of its kind and considered as the oldest brick temple around.

Shyamrai Temple: Shyamrai Temple or in a puritan way, Pancha Ratna Temple of Shyam Rai was Built in 1643 by King Raghunath Singha. The walls of Pancha Ratna temple are beautifully decorated with terracotta carvings illustrating various phases of Lord Krishna’s life in different angles. It is one of the largest temples standing strong in Bishnupur till date and is also considered as the most beautiful among all the Bishnupur temples.

Kalachand Mandir: Kalachand Temple was built in 1656 by Raghunath Singha. It is located at southern side of Lal Bandh and was built with Laterite Stone. Carvings on the wall of the Kalachand Temple depicts the life of Lord Krishna as well as many epics of Hinduism.

Radhamadhab Mandir: Built in 1737 by Queen Shiromoni, wife of Veer Singha, Radhamadhab Mandir is among the most well known temples of Bishnupur and an immediate tourist attraction. The carvings on the wall of the temple illustrates the life of Lord Krishna, many animals and birds and Hindu epics.

Jorbangla or Jorkhestra Temple: Beside Shyam Rai temple, King Raghunath Singha built another temple in 1655. The roof of the temple resembles contemporary Bengali roof (known as chala). Different pictorial expression in terracotta on the body of the temple wall illustrating war, hunting and contemporary social life of Bengal still mesmerizes tourists.

Radhe Shyam Temple: Built in 1758 by King Chaitanya Singha Radhe Shyam Temple is one of the best example of Malla architecture. Limestone was painted all over the body of the temple giving it an unique look.

Madan Gopal Temple: Built with laterite stone another beautiful temple to consider while visiting Bishnupur.

Durga Temple: Popularly known as Sreemandir the Durga temple is quite ordinary in terms of looks but carries a rich heritage as it was built in 997 A.D.

Rekh Deul or Malleshwar: It is the only Lord Shiva Temple in Bishnupur located at Dharapat, 7 kilometers away from Bishnupur. The foundation stone of this temple was laid by King Hambir in 1612 and was completed by his son King Raghunath in 1622.

Radhalal Jeu Temple: Just opposite to the King's palace (almost lost into the womb of time), this temple was built with laterite stone in 1658 during the reign of King Veer Singha.

Madan Mohan Temple: Madan Mohan temple was built in 1694 by King Durjan Singha. Built with brick this temple is famous for its explicit terracotta carvings.

Dalmardan or Dalmadal Cannon: A large cannon that helped to prevent Maratha aggression on Mallabhum. It is commonly believed that Lord Madanmohan himself fired the cannon to keep away Maratha leader Bhaskar Pandit and his infamous Bargis. The cannon costed around 1.85 lakhs at that time. Its around 3.8 meter long and 11.25 inches in diameter at its mouth.

Lal Bandh: A large water body dug between 1657 to 1677 along with Krishna Bandh, Jamuna Bandh, Kalindi Bandh, Shyam Bandh, Poka Bandh, Chukhan Bandh and many others by King Veer Singha. Later it became famous or infamous as it marked the end of Lal Bai, who was drowned to death in Lal Bandh by a group of angry mob following her illicit love affair with King II Raghunath Singha. It is commonly believed that Lal Bai still cries over the water body at night remembering her ill fate.

Things to collect at Bishnupur: Burned clay horse of Bankura and Dokra arts (Visiting Panchmura a few kilometers away from Bishnupur would be ideal for these two items), Swarnachari, Baluchari, Mallabhum and Tasar Silk Saree, Dashabatar Cards.

Best Time to visit: Summer should be avoided while visiting Bishnupur, owing to the scorching heat the place is infamous for. November to February would be perfect for a visit to Bishnupur, however December and January are the best two months on the calender for visiting the place.

Mukutmanipur (Bankura, West Bengal)

Mukutmanipur West Bengal’s own heaven lies in hilly region of Bankura District. In moonlit nights its enchanting beauty mesmorises people and make them to sit spell bound and watch till morning. A combination of small hills, fountains, eucalyptus as well as Kumari and Kangsabati Dam makes Mukutmanipur one of the few places in West Bengal where you can enjoy the serenity of Jungle, adventure of hilly landscape and soothing of vast water body. The 86 Square Kilometre water tank curved from Kangsabati by 11 Kilometre long and 38 Meter high Dam looks so vast that from places you would not be able to find the other side bank. The water tank looks beautiful in the time of sunset, it takes a crimson violet colour with the setting sun and as darkness is about to take reign of the dam, road lights along the dam creates a dreamy ambience.

Three Kilometres by the local muddy path and Six Kilometers following the dam top road one can visit a very ancient Lord Shiva Linga on a small hill top and Jain deity Parshanath Swami made out of Chlorite Stone. The most spectacular experience a tourist can enjoy is a boat ride in Kangsabati river. There is a deer park at Banpukuria a small island crossing the confluence of Kangsabati and Kumari river that might be of interest to a visitor to Mukutmanipur. Banpukuria can easily be reached by taking a boat ride from Mukutmanipur. Even if Deers are illusive the boat ride itself is enjoyable enough to consider and furthermore on the way to Banpukuria one can also see many birds either flying or floating on Kangsabati.

Well known Jain site Ambika Nagar is another place of heritage and culture located near Mukutmanipur. It’s four kilometres away from Gorabari. Apart from the temples of goddess Ambika and Sabitri, the castle of King Raicharan Dhabal might be of interest to a visitor to Ambika Nagar. However time took a toll on the castle and a little is left. There is a Durga Temple at Ambika Nagar which is considered to be over 1000 years old. One can also visit Susunia a seventy kilometre drive from Mukutmanipur and would consider himself enriched; credit goes to the explicit natural beauty of the place.

IMPORTANT TO NOTE: Mukutmanipur has many nearby worth to visit places like Jhilimili, Sutan, Ranibadh and Duarsini, however owing to Maoist disturbances these places are better to be avoided from your agenda while visiting Mukutmanipur. This is not a minor caution since local people as well as government officials feel the same.